Driving into Jerusalem I was struck by the dramatic change in terrain from the coast. The city is set atop a series of hills, its buildings of beige Jerusalem stone nestled in into stepped terraces dotted with cypress trees ~ a distinct contrast to Tel Aviv's white, modern International Style buildings, and bright blue sea. And though Jerusalem is very much a busy, modern city, there is peace and solitude to be found in the alley ways and courtyards of the Old City's Jewish Quarter. Olive and citrus trees defy the heat of the day and burst forth with fruit. The Old City can at times be overwhelming, so these places are a welcome refuge from the constant din of the Arab market and chatter of tourists. A quick historical note: much of the Jewish Quarter was destroyed in 1948, and was not rebuilt until after 1967. In rebuilding the quarter, however, architects and archaeologists were careful to preserve as much as they could of extant buildings and archaeological sites, so much of the area's ancient character and history is still there.