armchair traveler

Well...mmm...I have been busy. But I have a treat for you ~ I have at long last edited down the 1194 images I took this summer in England, and uploaded my 166 favorites to Flickr! Not an easy task my friends. So, here it is ~ Attingham 2008. Enjoy and xo.

P.S. Why did I not join Flickr sooner?!? love it.

attingham: one last favorite

One last favorite ~ Tyntesfield ~ and a confession. By the time we got to Tyntesfield late in the third week, I was suffering from complete house fatigue (yes, it can happen). Anyway, during the formal garden tour I escaped from the group (along with a few co-conspirators), ran giddily across a field full of cow patties, and hid out in the greenhouses. Shameless, I know. But, oh what a reward! ~ tables full of drying garlic, potted geraniums and carnations (the old-fashioned kind that smell like your great-grandmother's scented talcum powder), and rows and rows of cutting flowers. All part of the workings behind a great estate ~ and a little bit of refuge from the rest of the world.

So, this weekend go do something just a little bit naughty...! I am off on another adventure ~ I will see you later next week with a few last bits of inspiration from England, and perhaps a few new ones from New York. Be well.

attingham: the details 3

Today, just a couple more details ~ these from Weald and Downland (which reminded me a little of here). All about light and shadow. And a few links:

* House Proud
* Libraries of Light
* and a new Alice in Wonderland

Enjoy and happy thursday. xo.

attingham: the houses: hardwick

Week 2 favorites ~ Hardwick Hall ~ "more glass than wall!" This house was a place of complete sensory overload for me ~ from climbing up onto the roof to see the magnificent vistas to losing myself in room after room of textiles. I have very few photographs from Hardwick, partly because I was so distracted, and partly because the interior light levels are kept extremely low in order to protect the textiles. But, for more about Hardwick see Anne's guest post from last year, and these two publications:

* The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall (pure eye candy)
* Bess of Hardwick

Also, while I (madly!) lugged home all of the guide books for the houses we visited, you might be interested to know that you can order them through The History Press (they will ship internationally).

attingham: the houses: calke abbey

Week 2 favorites ~ Calke Abbey ~ speaking of gothic! This house is quite a departure from the others ~ full of decay, obsessive collections of taxidermy, stuffed birds and rusty watercans (etc., etc.), and dark, moody rooms. There were many in the group who found the place rather disturbing, but I loved the brooding, rather theatrical nature of it all. And gosh, it made for some fantastic photographic opportunities.

attingham: a peek inside

A couple of you wanted to see the inside of the conservatory at Flintham...and I am happy to oblige. Influenced by the Crystal Palace, the conservatory is one of the last of its kind left in England ~ a true feat of Victorian engineering. It is just the sort of place I dreamed about as a kid reading gothic Victorian novels ~ but never really imagined existed.

Also, just a quick note to say thank you for all your comments and emails. I am sorry if I haven't gotten back to you all, but I will...slowly but surely. Happy monday!

attingham: the houses: flintham

Week 2 favorites ~ Flintham Hall ~ as promised. I think there was a collective gasp of awe as we shuffled through the tiny garden gate and caught our first glimpse of this amazing Victorian house with its extraordinary glass conservatory. It is a private home, so it has a wonderfully comfortable feel. It is full of all those things that makes a country house so fabulous ~ needlepoint cushions, piles of books and curiosities, stuffed animals, and generations of walking sticks. And to top it all off, we were treated to a scrumptious tea and encouraged to explore the house and gardens as we pleased. Just magical...

Happy weekend to you all!

attingham: a favorite meal

One glorious evening we were invited to Winkburn Hall. And, as the sun set over a perfect English landscape, we were plied with wine and treated to a gourmet supper alfresco...followed by the most divine meringue with cream and berries (oh, and that Stilton!). I was so taken by this dessert that I had to track down the recipe. And it is just too good not to share ~ enjoy:

Meringue with sweet cream and raspberries

For the meringue:
6 organic free-range egg whites
small pinch of salt
360g/12oz caster sugar
3/4 tsp vanilla extract

For the sweet cream:
180ml/6fl oz double cream
1 tbsp icing sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
200g/7oz raspberries

Preheat the oven to 150C/300F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Put the egg whites (at room temperature) in a clean, dry bowl and add salt. Using an electric or balloon whisk beat the egg whites, slowly at first until they break down and begin to froth slightly. Increase the speed and continue until stiff peaks form. Add the sugar a spoonful at a time and finally beat in the vanilla. Place spoonfuls of the meringue mixture on the baking tray, spacing them evenly apart to allow for them to expand. Place in the oven and immediately turn down to 120C/250F and cook for 45 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to cool completely before removing (note: they may be kept in an airtight container for up to three days). To make the sweet cream, place the cream in a bowl and whisk until just soft. Add the sugar and vanilla and stir well to combine. Place the raspberries in another bowl and, using the back of a fork, press down on them gently to release the juice and lightly crush them. Stir the crushed raspberries into the cream. Arrange the meringues on a plate and spoon the raspberry cream over them. Serve immediately.

(from: The Independant, 6 July 2008)

attingham: the details 2

I do love a good conservatory! This particular one at Flintham is set inside the loveliest walled garden, and is full of climbing flowers and grape vines (and behind it, an old steam-heated melon pit!). I wish I could have hidden away there for an hour or two. The house is just as magical...and I promise a glimpse of it later this week.

attingham: the details 1

Before I subject you all to another "week" of houses, I thought I would treat you to some delicious details ~ wood carvings from Uppark, a stack of books in the Old Library at Petworth, and a few links (because I know you miss them!):

* The Dicamillo Companion
* William Blake: Illustrated Books
* and a database of bookbindings

And tomorrow...garden details. Happy tuesday. xo.

attingham: the houses: petworth

Week 1 favorites ~ Petworth ~ the one time haunt of J.M.W. Turner. Lest you think that all I did was wander through rose gardens...I give you Petworth. Not the most impressive of houses from the exterior...but the interior with its wonderful art collection, carvings by Grinling Gibbons, and classic enfilade of rooms, made my heart beat a little faster. Looking back through my notes, I have pages and pages dedicated to Petworth, almost singularly on Turner. For me, I think one of the greatest thrills was visiting the Old Library, which the artist used as his studio ~ stuffed full of dusty books and generally not open to the public. Must see: Turner at Petworth.

attingham: the houses: broughton

Week 1 favorites ~ Broughton Castle ~ the home of Lord and Lady Saye and Sele. Someone last night asked me which, of all the houses I visited, would I want to live in, and I immediately replied: Broughton. The house is warm and welcoming, and the gardens completely seductive. Perhaps it was because the day we visited was the first time we had seen sun in ages, but we all wandered around as if drugged by the scent of roses and honeysuckle. Anyway, it is one of those houses that you just have to feel...it is not about paintings, or furniture...it is all about place.

attingham: the houses: arundel

Week 1 favorites ~ Arundel Castle ~ the first of the houses we visited. Pearched high above the River Arun, it is the home of the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk. Although much of it (including the keep) was rebuilt in the 19th century, the house still retains some of its medieval flair. There was wonderful furniture and some gorgeous needlepoint (more on that later), but for me I think the highlight was a picnic on the tennis courts, surrounded by cascades of roses (see below). Sigh...oh, how I miss those egg and mayonnaise sandwiches (even if they did have butter on them!).

P.S. I am sorry not to post yesterday as promised ~ but I have some fabulous weekend posts put together to make up for it.

attingham: the landscapes

"To improve the scenery of a country, and to display its native beauties with advantage, is an ART which originated in England..."
~ Humphry Repton, 1794

Any discussion of the English country house can not begin without a mention of the landscapes in which they are set ~ those rolling green hills, so deliberately picturesque ~ the products of landscape architects such as William Kent, Lancelot "Capability" Brown, and Humphry Repton. But, I will spare you all a lecture, and just leave you with a couple links to explore:

* red books and sketches (via Garden History Girl)
* and a few "capable" landscapes

And tomorrow ~ houses!

(top: the view from my window at West Dean; and bottom: the recently restored rotunda at Petworth)

...and on a brighter note

A grand tour of English country houses begins tomorrow. I am furiously downloading images, and trying to put my thoughts together. In the mean time, here is a little teaser of what is to come:

Arundel Castle
Badminton House
Bolsover Castle
Broughton Castle
Calke Abbey
Castell Coch
Chatsworth
Corsham Court
Dyrham Park
Flintham
Hardwick Hall
Kedleston
Petworth
Royal Pavilion at Brighton
Soane Museum
Tredegar
Tyntesfield
Uppark
West Dean
Weald and Downland
Wightwick Manor

Enjoy!

attingham: blickling hall

Our grand tour of England comes to a close today with Anne's final post about Blickling Hall. As a garden lover, I think this must be my favorite. I just can't get over the smooth green grass and magnificent hedges! Many, many thanks to Anne for all of her hard work and gorgeous posts this week. Perhaps ~ someday ~ I will follow in her footsteps...

The 18th-century author Hannah More wrote: “You look on Houghton with astonishment, and Blickling with desire.” I have to agree after our final-week visit to Blickling Hall in Norfolk. The main reason that Blickling was such a delight to me will come as no surprise to those who have been following this week’s posts and have noticed a theme developing ~ gardens! Blickling is blessed with superb topiaries, hedges, a mixture of formal and informal gardens (part of which are newly planted in the style of 20th-century gardener Norah Lindsay), and drifts of flowers that seem to float across the clipped green lawn. The photo below gives a sense of the size and impact of Blickling’s magnificent hedges, and also a sense of what it must be like to be in charge of maintaining them!

After touring the interiors, a small group of us set off for a cross-country trek to visit the mausoleum of John Hobart, 2nd Earl of Buckinghamshire, who died in 1793, and his two wives, Mary Anne and Caroline. A good 45-minute walk from the house, the monument unexpectedly appears in a clearing in a part of the grounds that appears completely disconnected with the gardens and landscapes closer to the house. Its pyramidal form is clearly inspired by the funerary architecture of ancient Egypt, and is an interesting precursor to the fascination with Egypt that arose from European military campaigns in Egypt in the first years of the nineteenth century.

Thank you very much to Janet for inviting me to share these brief memories of a delightful experience on her blog, and thanks to all of you who have read and commented on them

attingham: hardwick hall

The saying goes "Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall" ~ and it is a truly wonderful Elizabethan house and garden! Anne, please tell us about it...

Hardwick Hall is noteworthy for having been built by a woman in the late 16th century. Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrewsbury, who famously had four husbands, built this house as a testament to the wealth and personal influence she had amassed over the course of her life. Hardwick is certainly impressive, not least in the high great chamber, with its plaster frieze depicting Diana and her court in a forest filled with animals both quotidian (deer) and exotic (monkeys). The views from this room, and from the roof are extraordinary ~ and a reminder of the necessary link between the country house and its landscape, one that is not merely aesthetic but a marker of the real political and cultural authority conferred on landowners.

Hardwick is famous for its needlework collection, and though I was unable to photograph any of the pieces, there many similar examples at the Victoria & Albert Museum (see below). I found the garden at Hardwick particularly delightful. The courtyard is encircled with flowers that gradually progress through the rainbow, from whites to blues to greens, yellows, pinks and reds in the manner of Gertrude Jekyll. And, also not to be missed are the ruins of old Hardwick Hall, which sit a few steps from the gate to the new house. Left abandoned when the death of Bess’ last husband made the construction of an even grander residence possible, plasterwork overmantles still cling to the crumbling walls.

(bottom image: Casket Panel, English, 1640-1680, satin, embroidered in silk and metal thread, Victoria & Albert Museum, London)

attingham: chatsworth

There is a reason that Chatworth has often been refered to as a "jewel in England's crown" ~ magnificent for its grounds, architecture, and collections. I'll let Anne tell you all about it...

Chatsworth is quite simply incredible, and has the distinction of being the only property we visited twice. Among its delights are gilded window casings, lounging naked boys accompanied by adoring dogs, free-range heirloom chickens, and a 17th-century metal tree sculpture that sprays water from its branches. While the house we see today was built and decorated over the course of 400 years, much of the exterior was put in place by the first Duke of Devonshire during the late 17th and early 18th centuries. In the 1750s and 1760s, the fourth Duke employed ‘Capability’ Brown to create the seemingly-natural landscape park in which the house still sits (see above). In the first half of the 19th century, the sixth Duke made dramatic changes to the interiors, added enormously to the family’s collections of art and rare books, and hired Joseph Paxton to make important additions to the garden. Among these are the rock garden, where artfully-placed boulders create a magical landscape reminiscent of Alice’s wonderland.

One of the most thrilling things about Chatsworth is the way that tradition and change are maintained in perfect equilibrium. A case in point is the exhibition Beyond Limits: Sotheby’s at Chatsworth, currently on display in the gardens (I particularly love the Vache Paysage by Francois-Xavier Lalanne). This exhibition, held in conjunction with Sotheby’s, highlights 23 works of large-scale contemporary sculpture that will be sold when the installation comes to a close. I am very sorry to have to have missed it ~ it would be wonderful to see the autumnal colors of the gardens set off by such unexpected and modern artworks.

(bottom image: Chatsworth, engraving from Morris's Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen, published 1880)

attingham: standen

Another gorgeous post from Anne! Enjoy...

Standen (in West Sussex) was a favorite destination of many on the trip, myself included. It was designed by the architect Philip Webb, known for his collaborations with William Morris, and built between 1892 and 1894. Despite its immense size, Standen differs greatly from most of the houses we visited because its architecture oxymoronically seeks to proclaim modesty and restraint rather than wealth and power. Its design incorporates Hollybush, a farmhouse dating from 1450 that stood on the property (see bottom image). Taking his inspiration from Hollybush, Webb designed a home that appeared to have grown organically over hundreds of years, and made use of a variety of local and traditional materials, such as sandstone, weather-boarding, and render. The result is a house which, though outfitted with all the modern conveniences such as running water and electricity, seems to have been tucked into a comfortable bed of flower gardens, orchards and fields.

The interiors of Standen, which are decorated in Morris & Company textiles, aspire to a simplicity and coziness that is atypical of the country estate. Unfortunately, some of the original furnishings were lost as Standen fell victim to the disdain for Victorian-era design that prevailed during much of the twentieth century. However, a few dedicated people in the 1970s managed to save much of it for the benefit of future generations.

attingham: west dean

As I mentioned on Friday, my friend Anne has agreed to tell us all a little bit about her trip to England this summer ~ and to share her beautiful photographs. So, Anne, take it away:

I am delighted that Janet invited me to share some of my photos and memories of the 2007 Attingham Trust Summer School on her blog. From July 6 to 24 I traveled the English countryside with 47 others, also interested in the history, architecture and collections of the country house. We met fascinating people, saw magnificent buildings under a cold and wet summer sky, and ate lots of cake. Over the next couple days, I hope to touch on a few of the highlights.

For the first week, we had the privilege of staying at West Dean College, a country house that has been transformed into a community of artists and craftspeople specializing in such areas as tapestry weaving and furniture conservation. Its situation in the Sussex downs is exquisite. From my room at the front of the house, I had a view (see below) of sheep grazing on rolling hills dotted with clumps of trees (which also provided soothing background music!). The people who manage the West Dean estate are committed to sustainability and community involvement. These values are apparent in many of the estate's initiatives, among them a renewable wood-fuel heating system that provides for the entire college and an affordable housing scheme for local people.

The present house was built between 1804 and 1830 by the Selsey family, who wished to expand the 17th-century manor house on their estate. Built of flint (a distinctive local stone), it was designed by the architect James Wyatt, whose romantic neo-Gothic style is clearly reflected in the castellated façade. Of particular interest are the gardens, which are divided into several parts, including walled kitchen and fruit gardens, an arboretum, an Edwardian pergola designed by Sir Harold Peto, and what is referred to as a ‘naturalist spring garden’ ~ a series of ponds and beds planted alongside a winding path that leads away from the main house. This last garden is filled with vistas and surprises, such as two surrealist sculptures envisioned by Edward James, the former owner of the house and founder of the college. When two trees in the garden were dying of old age, James had them encased in fiberglass ~ as the wood rotted away, the man-made shells were left standing. They are a fitting symbol of the interdependence of art and nature, both hallmarks of life at West Dean.